Is your light source constant, or are clouds occasionally passing over it?) Night scene mode. To get your flash off-camera, you need a trigger to fire it. The one you want here is the Night Scene mode (you may have to go into your menu to find it). Even better is that what you see in the viewfinder is what you’ll get when you shoot, not like flash, where you’re always guessing. Or with the flash turned on, the camera restricts the shutter speed and while your subject is well lit by the flash (but is flatly lit), the background has gone black. Photo by Four Corners School. Keep in mind that a higher ISO means a higher chance of noise (grain or pixilation). If you bring a something to light your subject other than a flash, there’s a different juggling act that needs to happen. Photo by Hideya HAMANO. Remote trigger or cable release- use one! The flash can look quite blue when shot against tungsten lighting, especially the sodium vapor lights in the background here. The shutter speed can be anything below 1/200th (or your camera’s sync speed, which will be in your camera manual). This will depend on the lens you’re shooting with, but for night time photography, wider is better. Fortunately, most cameras have a set of helpful scene modes. While the exact settings will change from picture to picture, the ideal settings for night photography is a high ISO (typically starting at 1600), an open aperture (such as f/2.8 or f/4) and the longest possible shutter speed as calculated with the 500 or 300 rule. Finally, if it’s still too bright at the lowest flash setting, move the flash further away from the subject. Manual mode allows you to adjust all three of these settings—you guessed it—manually, and gives you ultimate control over the outcome of your photos. For night landscapes and star photography, RAW is nearly always the way to go. Make sure it’s set to Exposure Simulation or Preview Mode On. How to use and balance aperture, shutter speed, […] If you’re using a tripod, you won’t have to worry about the reduction in photo quality (and clarity) created by a high ISO setting. Bulb mode allows you to use longer exposures for dramatic and well-lit images. Nothing here will make any difference if you don’t get out there. Shooting in JPEG format limits you in this regard. This photo doesn’t contain a background, but I wanted to create the feel of a busy road. Noise reduction works by creating a duplicate of your photo with the shutter totally closed (in other words, a blank photo with the same settings used in the actual photo), analyzing areas that contain grain or pixilation, and removing those imperfections from the original photo. With the flash off, you get a really blurry photo because the camera needs a longer exposure time at night. It’s a lose-lose situation, especially if you want to mix a photo of your subject with a cool background. The flash was in TTL mode, setting flash exposure was set automatically. By using a really shallow aperture these look fantastic out of focus. A shallow depth of field produced by a lower f-stop choice. If you’ve got a prime lens, you can even try wider aperture’s which will give a creamy out of focus background. It takes some of the math pressure off of you without requiring you to completely relinquish control. For a really cool look, find somewhere with loads of lights. Set the mode and remember that because you’ll have a longer exposure, you need to hold the camera steady. Luckily, modern cameras provide you with an array of night-friendly settings to help get a sharp, properly exposed photo of stars, planets, and night landscapes. The first step you need to make is how much of the shot you want in focus. is an official Fuji X Photographer and Adobe Community Professional based in Galway in Ireland. There are a plethora of variables (where is your light? Here’s a selection of night portraits that I’ve done and details about how they were made. For these shots, set your background exposure first and then introduce the light on the subject. Bonus: Shooting “raw” also allows your images to maintain the widest possible range of colors and pick up on both subtle and extreme differentiations between light and shadow (like in the photograph above). Set your ISO to a high number. It also helps if you subject doesn't have a lot of ambient light falling on them. This mode allows for a longer exposure, but your flash fires as well. Whether you just want something better from your camera automatically, or you want complete control of the light in the scene, there’s something in this article for you. 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Set the mode and remember that because you’ll have a longer exposure, you need to hold the camera steady. As you probably tell from how Night Scene mode works, you’re effectively taking two shots in one picture. A mix of high ISO and a large aperture helped prevent camera shake. Use a. Camera Settings and equipment to use for portraits: Lens – to flatter your subject use a short telephoto lens. Check out chapter 5 to find the best settings to start with for your specific subject matter, whether you’re shooting a star-scape, a close-up of the moon, or an artificially lit night landscape.